> I've got 6 coats of varnish on my Coho, and it's finally starting to look
> like this may work, but there's still some questions about a good
> technique:

> When does one decide enough is enough? I've read some folks apply up to 8
> or more coats. My can of Epifanes gives no indication how many coats or
> how thick the varnish needs to be to afford the UV protection I'm looking
> for.

It doesn't take much to do the job. Two or three coats can work, but see below.

>I have a good dial gauge if a particular mil thickness is desired.

It probably won't work on nonferrous surfaces like wood. A wet film gauge is much cheaper and more reliable in this case. N(on)D(estructive)T(esting) gauges for nonferrous are very expensive, and Tooke gauges make nasty scratches.

> In between coats, it's recommended that I sand with #400 wet or dry paper.
> How much to sand? Am I really sanding, or just scuffing? Should I be
> looking to remove all the high spots and sand completely smooth, or just
> kind of go over it all to take off some of the gloss along with the dust
> particles? I know in some places, I've cut through all the varnish down to
> the epoxy again, so it seems the heavy handed method should be avoided,
> but how 'light' can I go?

It sounds like you're spinning your wheels. If you scuff it all and get rid of dust particles, brush hairs and bugs, you're good to go for the next coat.

> Epifanes says to thin the varnish in decreasing amounts with each coat,
> with the last coats thinned only 5% (more in 'tropical conditions', but
> I'm in the Seattle area). I'm finding that I can't very well keep ahead of
> the drying process, i.e., even advancing only 3 or 4" at a time, it's
> very difficult to keep from making lasting brush marks. Should I add just
> a bit more thinner? This sure seems to help with the brushmark problem,
> but I don't want to have to add a dozen more coats to get the desired
> thickness or have a 'weaker' finish.

It is critically important to maintain a wet edge as you proceed. Mix in enough thinner to allow that to happen; it varies with local conditions. Make sure the solvent is compatible with the product.

> Epifanes says you can spray their stuff. Other sites, e.g., Dunbar Lumber,
> say that varnish is the last thing they'd recommend spraying because of
> the viscosity. I have the paint gun I painted my VW with years ago, and it
> still worked the other day with thinner, so I'm willing to try it if
> anyone can give me a few rough guidelines. I can rig a paint booth, and I
> would think I'd need more coats, but with the better finish I'd expect a
> lot less sanding, yes?.

Unless you have a real paint booth with major league air handling equipment, spraying will disappoint you. Every loose piece of junk in the air will end up glued to your boat. I am a big fan of spraying coatings, but this is not the right application for it.

> Finally, what treatment for the very last coat? Just leaving it glossy is
> OK? Or do some folks sand with #1500 grit, which still removes the gloss,
> and rub out with something else, like an auto finish compound?

If you plan to use it as furniture, go ahead and and buff it with rottenstone or car buffing compound. But if you plan to get it wet, it will get scratched. Quit obsessing and go play.

> Is wax or any other 'final' coating recommended by anyone? Automotive poly
> coat stuff? WD-40?

> From time to time, someone will ask if any non-varnish product will do the
> UV job. Any good answers, yet? If the boat is only outdoors when it's in
> the water, is UV protection still an issue? I hate to paint, so I'll try
> just about anything to avoid it.

For this application, varnish works as well as anything, it's cheap and reasonably easy to apply. You'll be doing it every year or two anyway, even if you use the high zoot catalyzed aliphatic urethanes.

> Happy paddling to you all; there've been some nice images lately of your
> boats.

> Boat kit #2 has arrived!

BTW, I live in your area. Look me up in the Eastside directory. I'd love to see your new baby.