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Moo :)
By:Brian T. Cunningham
Date: 1/20/1999, 10:26 am
In Response To: leather boats (Paul Jacobson)


> Sails tend to be well above the water. The leather may get wet, but it is
> not constantly submerged. Comparing that to a hull is probably not a good
> idea.

Yeh, probably right.

> I thought the leather on oars was for where they fit against the oarlocks.
> That area would be heavily greased or oiled, to keep the leather parts
> from squeaking as you rowed.

I've seen in on the handles as well, but your right that's the primary use. :)

> You would have a pretty heavy boat, but it might be popular with (and
> maybe even be sponsored by) the local cattle ranchers, slaughterhouses,
> packing plants, and/or tanneries. Maybe you could name the boat: Surf and
> Turf Special

No, I'm not looking for the CowHide car look from Mad Max... I did think about the weight though

> I believe there is an oil tanning process which makes the leather much
> more flexible and ater resistant than conventionally tanned hides. You
> would want to soak the leather with silicone or oil (neat's foot oil, or
> even motor oil) to protect it from cracking with absorbtion of water,and
> subsequent drying. Good luck waterproofing the seams.

> Well, ya build with what ya got.

> You might get a piece of leather and see if you can reinforce it with
> fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin. I suppose you could use strips of
> leather 3 to 4 inches wide and 1/4 inch thick (Sole leather for shoes is
> this wide and thick)in the same fashion as cedar strips and assemble them
> onto the same manner of frames. Since the leather is more flexible than
> wood strips, you might put the pieces on wet, and let them harden into
> shape. Shaping the fit of pieces could be done with a sharp knife. Instead
> of staples, if you wanted, you could stitch the pieces together, or edge
> glue them with crazy glue.

> You could make long strips with scarf joints of the same shape as those
> for cedar strips. I'd suggest a leather craft glue I've used called
> Barges. It works as a contact cement. YOu can cut the scarf joints with a
> knife. apply the glue, let it dry, then assemble the pieces, and whack
> them with a hammer or mallet to ensure a good bond. Due to the flexibility
> of the material a perfect cut on the joint is not necessary. You should
> not need to sand the outside,(hair side) and finishing the suede side
> (inside) might be best donw by sanding that side gently while the leather
> is still a strip.

> When the entire hull or deck is dry you could cover the whole thing with
> glass cloth and resin. This would definitely be a unique boat. Do some
> test pieces before you spend too much time on this, tho.

thanks

> By the way. If you have a cow you need to convert into one more hide, I
> suggest a barbeque. Be sure to invite us all for the food. I'm sure we
> would be happy to eat those steaks and ribs, and leave you the hide.

will do :)

> Best of luck.

> Paul Jacobson

Messages In This Thread

leather work on boats
Brian T. Cunningham -- 1/19/1999, 5:57 pm
Re: leather work on boats? Why...Yes!
Rick C. -- 1/22/1999, 12:18 am
thanks, I'll get out the mink oil :)
Brian T. Cunningham -- 1/22/1999, 11:13 am
leather boats
Paul Jacobson -- 1/20/1999, 1:35 am
Moo :)
Brian T. Cunningham -- 1/20/1999, 10:26 am
Re: leather boats
Frank -- 1/20/1999, 8:44 am
Re: leather boats
Steve Bradbury -- 1/20/1999, 6:55 am