Building a Resolute

Submitted byGary-IL onTue, 07/30/2019 - 22:13

I finally started on my Resolute 16'6" kayak. Early on I decided to document the process via a blog. If you're interested in following along, it's at

Based on an earlier posting I settled on primarily basswood with some spanish cedar "patches" and a handful of walnut accent lines (1/8" and 1/4" strips). I lofted the forms (in Autocad) from the tables in the KayakCraft book and then sent them to a local CNC shop to turn the CAD files into MDF forms. So far I'm at the point of forms aligned on the strongback and am starting to cut the strips now.

I'm more or less planning on following Nick's stapleless methods and will be modifying the cockpit to be longer to support actually getting my legs in (and out) while seated. Most cockpits I've tried require me to sit on the deck in order to get in and I'm not so found of that.


Tue, 07/30/2019 - 22:55

Very complete documentation of your project - it will be interesting to watch; thanks!

Also, excellent idea to take some kayaking lessons!

Are you building the deck before the hull?

Thanks for the feedback John.

I'm expecting to build the hull first as the stripping will be substantially easier. It'll give me a chance to "learn" the techniques before tackling the deck. With the color pattern areas I'm planning I have to layout the cockpit opening first, then the spanish cedar areas, then work backwards so the deck will definitely be much more difficult (and thus saved for after I have some experience under by belt)



Wed, 07/31/2019 - 00:51


I asked about the build order because it seemed in the pictures that you were setting up the strongback with the deck 'up'.

BTW, I'm sure (as you seem very thorough) that you'll check the hull side of the forms for alignment - you really don't want the hull to be misshapen.

I usually clamp sticks at the waterline marks of the forms to make sure that everything is 'square', though with an 'internal strongback' the forms are constrained, so perhaps it's not necessary.

Are those cherry stems internal or external? It would be a shame to add extra weight on the inside of the boat.

I think you are planning on using 1/4" thick strips? You will be happier if you do everything possible to keep the weight down (while still having 'enough' strength).

The Deck is up for now but the entire strongback sits in two cradles on saw horses so I can easily lift it and flip it over any time I want. Once I get the stems done and the strips cut I'll be remounting the stern and bow pieces and the flipping it over, double checking alignment and starting on the stripping.

Cherry stems will be external and after carving/shaving/sanding down will be a fraction of what they are now. Internal stems where it won't show I think I'm going put in a couple of ash pieces. Not sure yet but I'll figure that out hopefully this weekend.

Strips will be 1/4" although I've seen that Nick seems to consistently use 3/16ths, as this is my first I'd rather have a bit extra wood to work with and a little more "structure" inside the fiberglass as I continue to develop my kayak paddling skills. Weight wise I'm expecting this to come in lighter than a comparable plastic model which will be good enough. Ideally I'd be in the 40lb or so area but that's just a guess at the moment. The 14' 6" Tsunami that I used in the classes is listed at 56 lbs so if I end up with a longer kayak at the end and a lower weight than 56 it's a success for me.



Thu, 08/01/2019 - 01:31

It's pretty easy to build a 65 lb strip boat - lots of folks have done that on their first boats.