I am working very hard to get my plane ready to cover by spring. I also have to 'acquire' a kayak for my wife by spring, build or buy. (5'3" 125 lbs.) Not crazy about buying and very limited build time so I am considering a Pigmy kit that I could do part time and have completed by spring.
I don't remember seeing any comments on this forum about Pigmy kits or the quality of completed boats so, all comments welcome and appreciated
Thank you,
Hi,
is there anyone, who has build the Osprey triple or double using the plans published in Woodenboat magazine?
I really need some advices.
Advices from someone build the Double/triple from a plan or kit could be very helpful too.
Main question left are:
- Is the spacer height 6.5" for all 3 spacers?
- Have the spacers to be aligned with the sheer line?
- Are the measurements given on the tempory frames (67 1/8; 132 5/8; 187 1/8) referenced to the bow tip or to the plywood plate like the offsets?
Thsnks,
Marcel
DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET MARIN PLAY WOOD IN JAPAN
I have a kit from Chesapeake Light Craft that I want to sell. I have been storing it for many years and have no time for this project. If anyone could recommend a place or site to sell it through that would be greatly appreciated. I have tried to sell it via Craigslist with no luck.
I live in Spring Grove, IL 60081. I seem to recall a place in either Fort Atkinson or Whitewater Wisconsin that held classes on canoe and kayak building classes. I went to the Chamber of Commerce website for both of these towns but could not find a listing.
Hi,
I'm building the Petrel S&G kit, and I glassed the hull successfully but not without several "Oh no!" moments.
I wasn't fast enough to lay fillets down the length of the boat and get the cloth in place and wetted out before the fillets kicked. I'm slow.
I want to put in the fillets one day and glass another. If I lightly sand the fillets, can I do this?
Thanks,
Mike
Hi. I have been poring over lots of kayak building videos and all the information i can for the endeavor of building my own. I have decided to build the S&G guillemont, not only because the plans are free but what amazing kayaks nick schade has built and the experience he has developing small craft. I hope to use it for some weekend excursions. So the final details i have questions about are :
1) what thickness plywood can be used for this kayak?
2) can wood flour be used for thickening the epoxy on scarf joints?
A couple weeks ago I took time out from other projects to do some quick maintenance on a few a my kayaks. I had a broken back band, worn out gasket and a big ding to deal with. The video is below.
Probably of most interest to people is dealing with the beat up bottom of my Petrel Play SG. This boat has a single layer of glass on the bottom, doubled up only on the keel line. I take this boat to play in rock gardens where the surge sometimes drops me hard on pointy rocks.
I'm guessing the technique forum hasn't carried over to the new platform? Anyhow, I'll ask my question here on the builder's forum - there's sure to be some knowledge here.
I searched the archives and couldn't find any old posts about this, so I'll give some background... Sometime around 2001/2002 I built a Chesapeake Light Craft Northbay. I paddled it very happily for a few years but had a few changes I wanted to make. Sometime around 2007 I ripped the deck off and started a strip deck and some other modifications. Then we had a couple of kids and I put the kayak up in the garage for a whole bunch of years.
Thinkin' of a new project.
I've always liked the Cunningham Sea Kayaker S&G ... got the plans ages ago ... a couple of pages full of offsets. I wanna scale up the beam. So ... how do I do it?
One idea ... say I wanna add 2 inches to the max beam. This method assumes the angle of the side panel relative to the bottom panel is unchanged.
Bottom panel: Add 1 inch to the offset at the max width of the bottom panel ... take that number and use it to ratio the other bottom panel offsets.