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Sea Kayak Trips Bulletin Board
Whales off P'town, Cape Cod, Mass
Posted By: Nick Schade
Date: Sunday, 16 April 2000, at 5:46 p.m.
Scott McCue and I drove out to Provincetown, Mass. on Saturday for a whale hunt. It was very successful.
We parked in a lot down by the water ($5 all day, there was no visible free parking) and carried out boats over to the beach.
We didn't know exactly where to head so we just headed out across the harbor, until Scotty said he saw a blow. Over towards the sandbar creating the west border of the harbor we saw a fin sticking up out of the water. As we paddled in that direction we saw gannetts working the water. These are spectacular white birds that dive underwater from high in the air making a large spash with each entry. The blow Scotty saw may have been a gannet diving, but we saw more signs of a whale as we approached.
It appeared to be a solitary Finback working the area. We didn't get too close. There is not much point in trying to chase a whale in a kayak. But it surfaced within 100 yards of us several times and within about 50 yards once.
After this whale moved out of our range we decided to move out into Cape Cod bay. As we moved around the point, we saw some blows fairly far ahead of us but still in close to the beach. As we paddled along the beach they seemed to be getting closer until we were able to see they were moving directly towards us. They went down about 300 yards ahead. It looked like 3 whales of different sizes. We noticed that each time they rose to the surface the sea gulls all dropped down looking for some scraps.
We kept on paddling towards where we last saw them. After a while we noticed the sea gulls gathering maybe 1/2 to 3/4 mile ahead of us. Just as I was saying to Scotty, that this was probably a sign that the group had moved off, we heard a large blow directly behind us. Three large whales rose maybe 75 yards behind us, moving away in no great rush.
We decided to hang out where we were for a bit to see what would happen. Not much. So we continued up along the beach and again the group of three broke the surface maybe 100 yards further off shore from us. They seemed to come up for two breaths and then stay under for a while. After the group moved off, we went ashore for a stretch.
From shore we could see several seperate groups of whales active farther to the west. When we got back in the boats we headed towards where we last saw the activity.
As we got to the area, we noticed flocks of seagulls gathering farther up the beach. As we started heading in that direction, Scotty and I were paddling about 4 or 5 boat lengths apart with Scotty slightly ahead. When all of a sudden, a whale surfaced about 10 yards away from Scotty, barrelling right down between us. It seemed about as surprised to see us as we were to see it. It breathed quickly and resubmerged, only to to resurface about 50 yards to our left. It arched high as it dove down.
As it came through, it had to be almost directly below me, yet I was not able to see any evidence of it. It's amazing how such a big thing can completely disappear.
We continued up along the beach seeing signs of activity in the distance, but not seeing much closer than a 1/2 mile away. At one point all the merganzers in the area seemed to take off at once and head off to the south. I looked at my watch and noticed it was noon. We figured it must be lunch time for all the birds and they were headed into P'town to buy a crabroll.
The whales seemed to be taking a lunchbreak as well so we turned around to make our way back to the car. As we were paddling back, I notice smooth patch of water ahead, but didn't think too much of it until a whale surfaced right behind us headed the other direction.
Around the point of the sand spit a couple seals were basking on the beach. The little ones bounced themselves into the water as we went by, but the fastest couldn't be bothered and he just watched us pass.
The whalewhatch boats out of Provincetown were puttering around the harbor. By the way they were leaning to one side, they must have been seeing something. As we passed the breakwater just off the ends of the piers in Provincetown, one more whale surfaced behind us as he made his way out from within the breakwater.
All-in-all a successful day of hunting whales. Chasing after them seemed pretty pointless. All our closest encounters were just dumb luck of being the right place at the right time.
For more information about the whales off Provincetown, chech out the Center for Coastal Studies http://www.coastalstudies.org/
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