For me, making butt joints on the boat with Titebond, it is not really an issue about taking too long.
Generally I will go to the other side to apply the next strip which provides plenty of time for the joint to be set well enough to take off the clamping. It only takes about 5 minutes for a Titebond joint to set well enough to start working on the next strip installation, providing the joint has no big gaps.

If I understand correctly (and I probably don't - a little Google is a dangerous thing) the PVA glues like Titebond seem to be the best choice where you have a lot of gluing surface - and in fact I think one reason for cutting a scarf joint in the first place is to create the gluing surface that makes it suitable for a PVA type glue.

If you were doing a butt joint on the bench (NOT on the boat) then Titebond would be the worst choice, IIUC, because it tends to get sucked into the pores of the end-grain leaving the joint glue-starved. I think a CA or polyurethane glue would be a better choice there. (When doing a butt joint on the boat, as you describe, then it doesn't matter because the joint isn't under any stress - it's being supported by the long edge joint on either side)

If you're doing a scarf joint on the bench, then that seems like the scenario where PVA is ideal - plenty of glue surface, sufficient open time to let you adjust the joint and ensure everything is aligned properly, and easy clean-up. The polyurethane would hold well and have decent open time, but the foaming makes a mess that requires trimming (yes, I tried it, I don't know why). Seems like CA would be the worst choice here - no advantages over PVA, and the quick set time would work against you in trying to get the joints just right.