If you are primarily concerned with a functional kayak, you might try a method Bjorn Thomasson uses.
He uses square strips, does not fit them together with a rolling bevel, staples all of the strips in place at one time, then puts unfilled epoxy over all the strip joints at one time.

I've stripped two boats (Frej+my current project) using this technique. It is quick, and I'll probably use it again.

I was using strips from my rack and a lot of them had a bevel on one edge. This meant that a lot of the joints were quite tight a.k.a. 'good' for most other techniques (Previously, I used to glue the strips with plastic resin glue (or yellow glue) as I stapled them to the forms.).
I found that the WEST epoxy didn't penetrate the tighter joints, so I had some places that loosened up when I pulled the staples. So, if you are using Bjorn's method, be sure to use square-edged strips and resist the urge to bevel.
Perhaps a less viscous epoxy (which would run into the joints by capillary action) might work better.
Using WEST, I found that it took quite a bit of epoxy to cover the hull. Again, perhaps a different epoxy would work better.

You'll also need a portion of your strips half-width, which is a good idea anyway, if your kayak has any tight curves.

Both my boats using this technique were destined for a painted finish, so I wasn't very concerned with the cosmetics of the strip joints. I wouldn't do a 'wood-look' boat with that method.

Dan Caouette has mentioned most of the ideas above , plus some others in a longer post about Bjorn's method, IIRC.

Looking at amateur projects on Bjorns website, I get the impression that European builders are not so interested in the 'artistic' style of kayak. There are a lot of very good looking but 'strictly functional' boats being built 'over there'....my kind of project.