: With a ply on frame, you don't have to loft the panel shape from
: dimensions/coordinates, you take the panel shape directly from
: the frame ribs, or chine logs. Done tightly, they don't need
: outside sealing, though the lower chines and keel line can be
: reinforced with F/G tape and epoxy where needed.

: With chine logs, you could remove some of the framing in the
: cockpit area and use the next frames as bulkhead points. Put
: some ventilation system to let any moisture/water evaporate out
: when storing.

: Built carefully, a chine log kayak wouldn't weigh any more than a
: S&G with glassing, often a bit less. With good surface ply,
: marine ply can look very nice varnished bright. Do the best
: varnishing on the deck and upper panes. That's what most people
: see. :D The finish on the lower panels WILL get scratched up.
: You could go for a painted hull and varnished deck and 'worry'
: less about scratches.

: Years back, my uncle built a double hulled punt (crude catamaran)
: with 3/4" white deal frame & chine logs, hardboard*
: skin, and oil-based house paint inside and out. It lasted for at
: least ten years, stored outside, often upright and was light
: enough for us to carry and strong enough to survive us as kids.

: Mike Savage
: South West Cork
: *(high density fibreboard, smooth on one side, dimpled on the
: reverse. Unpainted it will absorb moisture and wet quickly
: through the reverse side, a lot slower on the smooth side.)

Also conventional plywood boatbuilding (ply on frame) can generate shapes you'd never dream of making with S&G. S&G is fairly limiting on design, it's just easy and that's why it's popular, not because it's better. And ply on frame can be just as easy with certain tricks.

Bill H.