I built this one for your consideration, It is a completely adjustable setup that works very well. It is set up so that it takes a fair physical effort to push the strip through. There are more pics and diagrams @

http://picasaweb.google.com/ve9dt2/Guillemot#

One router must be mounted above and one below to keep from a climbing cut and gun-shot-like strip finishing.

: One thing to keep in mind is that the 'left side' router will be
: mounted above the router table-- so that the cutting bit is
: going in the right direction.

: Sounds like you've got a good basic idea of one 'stationary' router
: with the other more 'adjustable'
: (of course they'd both be adjustable, but one more so than the
: other.
: As with my table set up, your first router will be adjusted for
: width of strip with the adjustable feather board. For the second
: router, the router would need to move in and out.

: On my table rather than trying to make parallel grooves, instead I
: use pivoting. My 'fence' is a piece of baltic birch ply, with a
: 1-3/4" hole (bit is about 1-3/8" diameter). To adjust
: the depth of cut I pivot this fence on a drywall screw near the
: edge of the infeed side, and anchor it down with a second screw
: near the edge of the outfeed side of the table. (I always found
: commercial router table fences moving like table saw fences to
: be unnecessary)

: Dust and chip collection are important because it keeps the area
: around the router cutting clean. A build up of saw dust here can
: cause a lot of problems. Without this aligning is impossible.

: A rare but possible problem is to watch for splintering. I once
: experienced a pine splinter tearing off, deflecting into the
: motor of my trusty 1/4" Porter Cable router. Killed the
: motor.

: Of course as you seem to be gearing up for production, Nick and
: some of the guys who do this for a living probably have it
: figured out best.