: Playing with a new design and while playing with different version
: I ran into something I just want to hear other peoples input on.
: I don't think there is a right or wrong answer. I am just
: looking at the balance between stability and resistance. I
: created a chart showing the different versions of the boat and
: listing the SF for each one.

: This is hard chined Greenland style boat. 15.5 ft on the water line
: and it started at 18.5" wide at the water line.

: Then I rescaled the width of the boat to 97% and kept doing that
: with the different versions. So this is basically just a
: narrower version of the boat.

: Version 1 is Fairly stable but probably not a first timers boat at
: 92, then V2 drops to 82, V3=79 and V4= 76.

: I charted the different versions. Speed in knots is on the left.
: Lbs of resistance is along the bottom. Looking at the difference
: in resistance the gain in (potential) speed is minimal. Most of
: the gains are in the racing, real strong paddlers and sprinting
: speeds. So for less stability it appears you gain minimal
: advantage. Version 2 seems like the best compromise to me.
: BTW, the blue line is a multi-chined hull. I wanted to compare it
: too.

: Of course I realize there are other reasons for less stability and
: yes I know there are many more factors in the design of the
: hull. This was the first time I had actually compared these and
: was a little surprised at the numbers. Just want to hear others
: opinions and thoughts. Bound to lean something.

: Here is the description from Killen of his Stability factor
: numbers.
: 110+ is comfortable for all novices
: 100 is comfortable for most paddlers
: 98 will be initially tender to some novices, but after a few
: paddles will be quite comfortable
: 92 is not comfortable to most novices.
: 88 is a challenging boat for some people to paddle
: 40 to 50 is the low end, a K1 racing kayak would be somewhere in
: that range.

Hi Jeff,

Um...what is the question?

Bill H.