: ...so, a little help with the definition of rolling bevel: it sounds like
: removing material from the fixed strip and the soon to be fixed strip so
: that the edges are aligned. more technically, if the total angle between
: the old strip and the new strip is 10 degrees, each strip is beveled
: (flat, the length of the strip) 5 deg.

: if that is the def...it seems there is some division on whether or not to use
: the cove and bead or the rolling bevel. without going back to look through
: my previous post, there may have been more suggestions to use the rolling
: bevel. outside of initial time and cost are there other draw backs to cove
: and bead? advantages and disadvantages to rolling bevel?

: thanks in advance.

: -s

Hi Steve,
A true rolling bevel isn't needed in strip building kayaks, unlike a caravel boat where the planks need to be tight together for their full thickness for water-tightness.
A slight bevel on the strips at the flatter areas of hull will work fine, just have any gapping on the inside so the outer edges are tight together. The epoxy will fill the gaps.
At tight curved areas like the turn of the bilge, increase the amount beveled to get the same effect.
Most of the strips will only need a small bevel, with a smaller number so strips needing more beveling, all of which can be done on a bench rather than the forms.
To keep strips aligned between forms, use good masking tape or make small U-shaped clamps that slip over two strips. The clamp is just a piece of ply with a slot that is as wide as the strip thickness and as deep as two strips.
Simple and fast to make as you can stack a bunch of ply pieces and cut them all at once. A good way to recycle ply scraps you can't use elsewhere.
Use polyethylene sheet in the clamp slot to stop it sticking to any gluing. Plastic shopping bags work perfectly for this.

Hope this helps,
Mike Savage
South West Cork