Paul,

Indeed, the method you have discussed here, and in several previous posts on 'plank-on-chine' construction, is what I had in mind. I just wondered if it(the Nikumi) had already been built this way.
I had planned to build the Walrus this way, after your suggestion, and looking at Mike Hanks' 'Ply-Rus'.I opted for the SOF 'Iggy', and now want a hardshell kayak. I have plans for a Greenland model, but am just a wee bit curious about a baidarka (I met George Dyson this summer when I went to Bellingham to pick up some nylon... WAAAY cool shop !!)

As I said, I just wondered if a ply Nikumi had been done, so I could see someone else's solution to the challenge of the bow.

Would there be a significant difference in the amount of storage volume in similar 17' x 21" models of a baidarka vs Greenland? I ask because the reason for the build is to have a hardshell for weekend overnight trips.

As always, thanks for the very informative posts!

kelly t

: Why not make your own, photograph it, and show it to us? Actually, a plywood
: version should look almost exactly like the fabric-covered version.
: Certainly you would want the hull to look alike so it would have the same
: performance charcteristics. The deck could be anything.

: I think Aaron was on the right trail when he suggested you build a SOF
: boat--but if you are interested in a plywood boat, then build the Nikumi
: frame, with small modifications, and cover it with plywood strips rather
: than fabric. If you are going to use 3mm or 1/8th inch plywood then your
: modifications are to make the chine strips 5/8 x 5/8. If you are using 1/4
: inch plywood then make them 1/2 x 1/2. With the smaller chine dimensions
: the thickness of the plywood will bring the outside shape up to the design
: lines.

: Once you have the frame built, clamp roughly cut strips of plywood along one
: chine, then mark where it hits the adjoining chine. Cut on the lines, and
: glue this to the chines. You can scarf the plywood into long strips, or
: just cut the ends so they have a 45 degree bevel and butt them together.
: The bevel will give you a good glue area, and the panels are supported by
: the chines, anyhow.

: At the bow and stern you'll have to use some judgement in extending the
: plywood past the ends of the chines, but that shouldn't be too difficult.
: Let the plywood run a bit long, and ust extend the lines. since there
: won't be an chine behind the panels, you may want to reinforce the joints
: with a fillet of fiberglass and resin on the inside.

: Some people may debate between just taping the seams or covering the entire
: outside of the hull with glass cloth. With this multichine design those
: seams are so close together that the tape approach would practically cover
: the hull, and leave a lot of edges to sand down. I'd skip that, and go for
: a neater one-piece covering from a sheet of glass cloth. With the chines
: on the inside you don't need to put glass in there. Just paint it with two
: coats of epoxy resin to seal the wood.

: Have fun with your project.

: PGJ