: Looks nice, Roger.

Thanks, Jim has done most of the work. A lot of steps take 2 people. It’s a bigger project than we were originally expecting. Isn’t that always the case?

: I waited to do the masik and footbrace last, like you, but still managed to
: make them too high. The "sit on a 2x4 on the aft deck and
: measure" method didn't work well for me. Any suggestions for the next
: boat?

The foot brace placement is looking pretty good. We can always put in another board to place Jim's feet against.
I think a 1X4 would give a more realistic entry angle.

: I just got mine wet for the first time last night. It's 17'5" x
: 20". Stability can best be described as...ummm...low. It feels
: similar to a Feathercraft Khatsalano. It will definitely take some getting
: used to, even when coming from a Nordkapp.

We pushed the stringers out maybe an extra half inch. We are trying to buy some more initial stability.

: Ohhhh....a "smorgas-board",eh? Nyuk, nyuk!

: Using whatever suitable lumber that you have on hand is certainly one of the
: benefits of SOF building. I even used some 2x pressure treated pine that's
: been languishing in the garage for nearly a decade (masik, knee brace
: & footbrace).

: I was wondering about the ends of the chine stringers...

I’ll take a photo of the chine stringer ends today and post them next week. Jim and I kicked around what to do with them for quite some time. We’re open to opinions on our final decision. You’ll just have to wait and see.

: Where exactly did you use the various woods? I assume the ribs are white oak?
: How did it bend for you?

I have lots of boat building wood sitting around. We bought some wood for the project but mostly assessed what length/width/characteristics we needed and found a piece of wood to suite.

I'll post wood usage later. I'm including a photo that shows the variety of woods.

The ribs are White Oak. Morris called for 1/4" X 1.5" ribs. Our first attempt was Port Orford Cedar. WARNING Port Orford Cedar is not usable rib material. We found out the hard way. We were recommended the oak by a local builder. The oak is not 1.5" wide. This is where my friend Mr epoxy came into play. Once all the ribs were in place. Jim dowelled each rib. The next day I poured epoxy into the oversized holes an hour later I did a second pour as the epoxy had worked its way into all the cracks and crevices. Traditional? No, but both Jim and I like the results.

: What are you using for the skin? I did mine with 13 ounce polyester (from
: Dyson) and it's a bear to sew! It has very little stretch or shrinkage, so
: it must be sewn TIGHT! The recommended box stitch takes forever; I must
: have 12 hours of stitching time in mine. My hands are still stiff sore
: five days after finishing the sewing, but maybe that's my age showing.
: Between the sewing hassle, the price ($6.00 per linear foot) and the waste
: (it comes 80" wide), I'll think twice about using it again. Can
: anyone think of a good use for a 20' x 22" piece of polyester?

I'm looking at a 12 oz sample that Dyson sent me. It has a flexible weave, which should hopefully help.

Roger