Will - The problem is not with any clamping method - it is the wood and what it is you are trying to do with or to it. The design of a hull generally requires you to bend the strip in three directions: across its width, across its thickness, and twist it - all at the same time. The natural tendency of the wood is to resist this torture and lie in as straight a line as it can, given the constraints of the design. I have had some success with solving the problem on my Wee Lassie II - a canoe that has a hull shape suggesting a kayak hull. My website (link below, but Netscape is sometimes quite slow) describes the method I used - using "push sticks" to keep the errant strips in line. The secret to success lies in you being able to keep all of the strips against the forms until the bottom is closed. Failure to accomplish that can result in a hull shape a little different than the design. The "female mold" idea is similar to what I have done, and would probably work.

Good luck! - John

: I am working on one of the One Ocean Kayaks Designs...the Cape Anne Double as
: my first boat. I do a good bit of woodworking, and don't particularly like
: the look of lots of dark staple holes, so I decided to try stapleless
: construction.

: So, I finally got around to putting on my first couple of hull strips last
: week. I started with a sacrifical sheer strip that I stapled, screwed,
: begged and pleaded to get exactly along the sheer line. I then started
: with a double coved strip, glue, regular (bead & cove) strip, glue,
: strip, glue, etc... I have been putting one strip on at a time and working
: on both the left and right of the boat. My problem is that I have 4 strips
: on each side, and I am already getting some (3/16 - 1/4") separation
: of the strips from the forms, mostly at the bow (1st 3-4 stations). I
: think this is due to the construction technique I'm using. I use
: 'L-shaped' blocks clamped to the forms w/ wedges to hold the strips down
: and against the form for the most of the stations in the middle. For the
: stations at the ends, I am using bungee cord thatI wrap around the 4-5
: strips twice (1/4" dowell to protect exposed cove), go through a
: drilled hole in the station, around the strips again, through the next
: station hole, etc. The wraps around the strips compress the new bead into
: the old cove. Going thru the station holes was supposed to draw the strips
: into forms. A couple of observations: 1) Something stronger than the
: 'L-shaped' blocks is needed at the boat ends to bend the strips down into
: shape.

: 2) Using the bungee cords the way I am is tending to take the curved stack of
: strips and force the middle away from each form because of the clamping
: pressure applied.

: 3) Why am I so stuborn and why won't I just give into using staples!

: Finally, the questions??

: --are there some stapless sites / construction techniques that I am missing??
: (without having to steam...I would really like to avoid this if possible.)

: --Any other ideas on how to keep these strips tamed and tight to the forms!
: The wood is redwood, by the way.

: --Is there anyone else building in the Cincinnati, OH area so that I could
: come and get some inspiration from you boat?!

: If you got this far, thanks for reading and thanks for all the great info
: I've already gotten from this forum over the past year!

: ----Will