: I know that typical claims for 17.5' kayak weights are on the order of:

: 36 (CLC) - 40 (Nick) pounds for stitch and glue
: and
: 44 (Nick) pounds for strip

: But what are the REAL weights.

: I built a CLC stitch and glue using CLC plans (no deck fittings,
: no hatches, no bulkheads, etc) and materials and came up
: 4 pounds heavy (scale certified for trade). I then weighed samples of each material
: on a lab scale, computed the weight of the epoxyed wood, and the fiberglass
: (50% cloth / 50% epoxy).

: Results:
: No matter how good one is - it is impossible to build the CLC boat
: (their plans, their materials, their construction methods) to their weight.

: I should note that a plywood thickness variation of .5mm would allow a boat to be
: built to their weight.
:
: I could go to the trouble of computing the weight of strip kayak but I don't even
: know the most important item - the finshed wood thickness (let lone the density of the wood).

: In any case, what is the chance of a first time strip builder producing a boat in the low 40 pound range.

I built Nick’s Coastal and logged the weights at important milestones. I used
95% redwood and about 5% clear pine.

HULL
--------
After rough stripping - 17#
Ater fairing the exterior - 14#
Ater glassing exterior only - 18#
Ater fairing the interior - 14#
After glassing the interior - 18#

DECK
--------
After rough stripping - 15#
After fairing the exterior and cutout for coaming - 11#
After coaming build up - 12#
After glassing inside/outside - 16#

After installation of stripped and glassed bulk heads (the rear is canted),
mating hull and deck, and installing foot pegs (no deck rigging or hatches
yet) - 42#

This data supports Nick earilier comments, The GLASS/EPOXY is what gives the
boat the weight (and the strength). When I applied the epoxy, I wasn't
conservative. After all, what good is a light weight boat that is falling
apart miles from shore?