I am in the process of building a cedar-strip canoe. I am using Raka Epoxy. I have a little experience using epoxy. I built 2 strip kayaks 18 years ago (Mas epoxy) and a SUP last year (raka). The kayaks wet out very nice, did a sealer coat, everything went well, very clear, no glass seen under two fill coats, lots of varnish, still very nice after all these years. The Sup (raka) last year seemed to show a little of the cloth under certain light and angles. I chalked it up to maybe using glass I purchased from a internet company, thought maybe wasn't compatible.
I don’t know how much interest there is in adopting others’ unfinished projects, but I have a half-finished strip-built Njord kayak that has been hanging around (literally - at my in-laws’ house) for more than five years, and I need to do something with it. Life and living circumstances don’t allow me to finish it, so if anyone else is interested in doing so - it’s yours!
Hi. I'm about to start my first kayak. I'm in the Chicago area and I've yet to find any clear (or at least reasonably so) WRC and no place has NWC... at least no store that I've been able to get to. At my local wood shop (Owl for those in the area) I checked out their WRC and it was very knotty. Looked at a bunch of other options and all seemed quite heavy by comparison. The backup choice of basswood wasn't too bad appearance and weight wise but then I found their Spanish Cedar. It is not a wood I had heard of before.
Appreciate any help with my concerns below concerning build of Petrel. Thanks Chris
1. I’m ready to assemble the bow and stern endforms. After assembly, the lower edges of the endforms will project outside the envelope of the frame. Do the edges need to be beveled before the bow frames 1,2 and 3 are mounted?
2. Any chance there’s a photo of this assembly?
I just ordered Great Auk kayak plans and read Nick’s book, “The Strip-Built Sea Kayak” as first steps. I also ordered a 2x4x16 foot LVL construction beam to use as the strong back (I read that this was a better option than a 2x4 because it is more true). My naive question is how I attach the forms with actual 2” by 4” cutouts to the LVL, which has 1 1/2” by 3 1/2” true dimensions. Should I try to center a 1.5 x 3.5 inch hole on the form instead of cutout the 2x4 hole, or just try to shim the larger hole to the smaller LVL?
With the arrival of a beautiful custom seat from Joe Greenley at Redfish Kayak, my Kayak Couture project is done short of some final fitting adjustments on the seat when we get back to some decent weather here (20 degrees here today, even the lawn is frozen solid). The boat replaces my wife's sassy Chesapeake 14 that is approaching 20 years old now (but still in great shape).
well today i finished the epoxy work on the boat (frej 90 15 feet long 19 inches wide)....so it is all seamed, bulkheads installed, skeg in, internal rigging points completed....so the only thing left now is finish sanding, varnish, seat, back-band and rigging. so will be taking a couple months off during the winter until i can start work again in the spring....it should be quick work at that time.
I am building an adjustable skeg using marine ply for the blade. I applied glass cloth to each face of the plywood before cutting the skeg to shape Now I need to seal the edges. Is just epoxy enough or do I need to wrap cloth around the edges? It seems it would be difficult to conform the cloth to the shape especially in the slot for the pivot pin.
I'm going to make a Mystic River Canoe from plans and was wondering how important it is to have 18' strips. Or, should I just attach smaller strips? I guess I can certainly mail order them if it comes to it although wonder if it is cheaper to mill my own..
I have a router table and tablet saw but it seems sort of difficult to put a bead and cove in 18' strips.. but is this how it's done? On the other hand, if I connect a bunch of smaller strips, I imagine it will have color variations.