Here's my question, I am using staples to hold my strips to the forms. I tried holt glue but it would not hold. Can I remove the staples and due a scrapping of the haul and then reinforce the haul with tape as Nick did on one of his builds before flipping the forms or should I just strip the entire kayak before I start scrapping and sanding. I am still trying out different things to see what works. Thanks in advance
Does anybody apply a seal coat of epoxy on the inner stems prior to stripping? I understand that the strips cover them on the outside, but on the inside I could see some voids developing when trying to apply the glass in the tight stern and bow sections. Or is this overkill?
Thanks. I hope everyone enjoys their weekend.
Well ok, maybe fire isn't such a good thing around wooden boats.
Anyway, I'm stuck on the wrong side of The Pond until TPTB let us fly home again, but have pulled the trigger on the plans (and companion dvds) for a Laughing Loon, Georgian Bay. I plan to build his & hers boats for my bride and I.
I'm sure Rob includes all or most of the info I need in the plans, but I won't see that until well, later. My burning questions right now are;
Ok, I have a question. How many scarf joints are to many? I cut up a piece of Red Cedar 2x4x15 and out of that whole board I got maybe five 3/4 X3/16 strips. The board had a couple of nots that fractured during the milling process. I can forget about any type of grain pattern and spend a day or two Scarfing joints or should I just scrap that piece and start over. Did I mention I am building the 18 ft guillemot L
I am in the process of building a boat out of strips and I am using an inexpensive yet effective of holding the strips in place.
I am using old bicycle tubes with the valves cut off and the tube cut to make it a nice long elastic. I have found that the very skinny road bike tires work well. I simply clamp or tie one end off. Then wrap the tube firmly around the pre-glued strip. I dry fit each strip first. I also use latex surgical tubing, but I had to buy that. And I have a good supply of old bike tubes.
My first post - I've been learning from this forum for a few years, just glassed the hull exterior of my first build which is Jay Babina's Outer Islander. I love the process of strip building and could not be doing it without this forum and all the support from the great builders I have plans from. I've read all the threads from past years debating ocean vs keyhole cockpits. The situation is, I promised this 'first' kayak to my wife. The next one, which I have already milled strips for, will be for me, and will be an ocean cockpit. This one, however, just needs to be a keyhole cockpit
Hello, I am new to this site and kayak building. I read Nick Shades book "strip built sea Kayak" several times over and I plan on building the Great Auk. But the more I read about how to Draw the sections, the more confused I get. I am sure for most it is a simple thing to read the offset chart but apparently not for me. I am having a problem understanding exactly how one transfers the numbers on the offset chart into a section drawing. Wood working I know, boat building not so much. any help would be appreciated thanks in advance
My epoxy and glass fiber supplier, timeout.de, also sells basalt and flax fabrics for epoxy composites. Has anyone used either of these for wooden boat building? I'm looking for something opaque for the inside, and these two are cheaper options, than carbon and/or aramid. The flax is especially appealing because it is a natural material. Unfortunately, this also means, that it will rot.
Any kind of feedback is appreciated.